My Yearly Photo Statistics
year | size (GB) | keeps (file) | |
2003 | 0.5 | 1200 | Got 1st camera |
2004 | 2.5 | 4800 | |
2005 | 2.7 | 3500 | |
2006 | 10.1 | 4800 | from 3MP to 5MP |
2007 | 2.1 | 1200 | Busy and Interest decrease |
2008 | 1.3 | 664 | |
2009 | 1.2 | 700 | |
2010 | 1.8 | 600 | |
2011 | 21.6 | 4300 | Got 1st DSLR, K-x |
2012 | 16.1 | 3000 | |
2012-2013 film | 56.7 | 2100 | |
2013 | 14.3 | 2300 | Bought K-01 |
2014 | 19.8 | 3000 | |
2015 | 23.8 | 3000 | |
2016 | 73.6 | 11,000 | Burst Mode unlocked |
2017 | 62 | 10,000 | |
2018 | 72.8 | 8100 | |
2019 | 76.5 | 6785 | |
2020 | 49.1 | 3797 | |
2021 | 55.3 | 2161 | Start shooting RAW |
2022 | 89.8 | 3091 | |
2023 | 219 | 8620 | more cams n trips |
My Gear History
Film Camera | |
Phenix DC828 SLR | battery install LR44 with flat side facing inside, opposite of K1000 battery install |
Intro to Pentax System
interchangable digital lineup |
645D, 645Z | MF line |
K1 | FF line |
K10D, K20D, K7, K5, K3 | Hi-end APS-C line |
K-01, KS1, KS2, KP | experimental/trendy APS-C line |
K100D, K200D, K30, K50, K70 | affordable APS-C line |
K110D, Km, Kx, Kr, K500 | inexpensive APS-C line |
my personal experience with different K-mount lens that I used or have interest in.
note 1: of course, there are more options, but I select them based on what I am interested and what is available to me.
note 2: these lenses are chosen based on budget of 500SGD around or under in the second hand market
WIP
to merge into this page
artwiki:camerawiki:pentaxwiki
artwiki:camerawiki:lensreview
artwiki:camerawiki:filmcamera
Wide Angle Lens (12mm-28mm)
Samyang 8mm f3.5 Fisheye
(ASP-C, manual focus, mfd 30cm, 7.5cm x 7.5cm, 400g, cheap good fisheye with good sharpness, version II got removable hood for clipped circle fisheye look on full frame sensor, while this is hood shaped look on full frame sensor)
My experience:
useful situation:
capturing all the people closing to each other in a tight space, like bed, lift, crowd.
capturing all the environment and background behind portrait, like big dome ceiling
capturing landscape with a lot of cloud, as long level horizontally, it looks like no fisheye distortion effect
capturing wide angle macro shots, it can focus close to 30cm, and at f8, 5cm onward is actually in sharp focus because wide range of depth of field.
tips on using it:
the best sharpness is around f8-f11, f5.6 is also acceptable; thus indoor flash lighting required
focus ring can be set quickly at like 30cm, 70cm, 1m for quick manual focus.
fisheye can be better than normal perspective wide angle lens when capture people at edge of lens image circle, since it keep people still in a acceptable good shape
indoor shots always better with good flash lighting
web ref:
Sigma 8-16mm f/4.5-5.6 DC HSM
(ASP-C, auto focus, mfd 24cm, 0.13x, 555g, 10cm x 7.5cm, 2010, one of sharpest sigma wide angle lens)
My experience:
useful situation:
good for indoor shots where you got no space to move back and you still want to cover from left to right, even toilet shot can cover everything
capture portrait in center area, and show great dynamics happening around
line keeps straight in a normal perspective view comparing to fisheye, however, same as fisheye, keep horizontal line leveled will hide better with the vanishing point stretching look
tips on using it:
capture extreme wide view at 8mm, for people shot, better keep people within middle 1/3 area to avoid edge area perspective distortion.
also shoot in landscape as much as you can than vertical, as the stretching perspective effect is stronger on the side than in the center
no filter can be used directly, the cap hood accept 72mm filter, but the hood will black circle at all range.
f5.6 is sharp already from edge to edge, however, indoor you need flash lighting most time
at 8mm, it is addictive to shoot always at 8mm, as no wide is wide enough; at 16mm end, it is noticeably softer. however, you will use 8mm most time
ref web reading:
Sigma 10-20mm f4-5.6 EX DC
(APS-C, auto focus, 77mm, 470g, one of the cheapest good option for Pentax ultra wide)
my experience:
useful situation:
tips on using it:
the edge will show noticeable softness, and you need to use floor or grass or non-detail content to cover up the edge weakness. otherwise, center area sharpness and average coverage is good sharpness at f8-f11
also people outside middle 1/3 area will get noticeable perspective distortion, like stretched
web ref:
Pentax DA 10-17mm f/3.5-4.5 Fisheye (never tried)
(APS-C, auto focus, 320g)
my reading:
DA 10-17 has better close up macro capability
while the type of samyang 8mm fisheye projection is prefered for wider view, and 360 stitching
web refer:
Samyang 10mm f2.8 (never tried)
(APS-C, manual focus, 580g)
Pentax DA 12-24 f4 (never tried)
(APS-C, AF, 430g, 77mm filter, 8 blades, 0.3m)
Samyang 14mm f2.8 (never tried)
(full frame, manual focus, 530g)
Pentax DA 15mm f4 (never tried)
(APS-C, 49mm, 190g small compact Pentax style)
Zenitar 16mm f2.8 fishey (never tried)
Pentax K 17mm f4 fisheye (never tried)
Tamron SP 17-35mm f2.8-f4
(full frame, autofocus, 77mm, 440g available 2nd hand only)
My experience:
A very fast, sharp and useful lens on APS-C pentax camera, and wide fast lens for K-mount film camera.
on full frame digital, edge a bit hard to keep up, and direct shoot against sun will cause a ring flare on image
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useful situation:
tips on using it:
web ref:
Pentax DAL 18-55mm f3.5-5.6
(APS-C, auto focus, 52mm, 200g, typical kit lens, new version DAL 18-50mm F4-5.6 DC is faster)
My experience:
a typical kit lens, good performance at f8, I use it mainly when traveling lightweight and convenient, good in good lighting condition, 55mm is weak in sharpness, but enough sharpness for travel photos at f8. Best part is that it is the only cheap lightweight lens for Pentax mount for you to shoot at 18mm and at f8 it is good for its purpose. However, if you can get the new DAL 18-50mm F4-5.6 DC, it is same image quality but in a much more compact form and it focus faster and silent. The other alternative, Pentax DA 18-135, Tamron SP 17-50mm, Tamron SP 17-35mm, Sigma Art 18-35mm f1.8 are either more expensive or heavier or bigger comparing to it for travel purpose.
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web ref:
20mm Prime Option (never tried)
(full frame)
Pentax DA 21mm f3.2 (never tried)
(APS-C, auto focus, 49mm, 140g, small compact Pentax style)
My reading:
the 18-50 range is covered too much by so many zooms, especially with lens like Tamron SP 17-50mm f2.8, making the only advantage of this lens is the small size. also in the second hand market, a hard-to-sell one.
web ref:
24mm Prime Option (never tried)
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Vivitar 24mm f2.8 pka
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Samyang 24mm f1.4
Miranda 24mm f2.8
Vivitar 28mm f2.8
(full frame, manual focus, 49mm, compact metal lens like Pentax, but as solid build feel as Pentax )
Pentax M 28mm f2.8
(never tried or I forgot)
(full frame, manual focus, 49mm, 156g compact metal Pentax lens)
Pentax A 28mm f2.8
(full frame, manual focus, 49mm, 170g, compact metal Pentax lens)
My experience:
solid metal compact lens, typical Pentax A design and function, warm color feel comparing to other film era cool feel lens.
I don't use much, since 18-50mm range is quite over crowd in lens choice.
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Miranda 28mm f2.8
(full frame, manual focus, 49mm, compact metal lens, as solid feel as Pentax M serias)
My experience:
solid metal compact lens, as solid as Pentax M lens, color feel is just right, not warm not cool feel. I used it for general shooting on APS-C lens (since it is equiv. 42mm on APSC), and tele-macro extension convertor for extreme 5:1 macro, good color even using with flashing lighting (just tiny bit fringe), comparable to film era lens purple fringe with flash.
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other 28mm prime option
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K 28mm f3.5
M 28mm f3.5
M 28mm f2.8
Vivitar 28mm f2
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Cosinon f2.8 28mm
Hanimex f2.8 28mm
Hoya f2.8 28mm
Makinon f2.8 28mm
Osawa f2.8 28mm
pentax M f2.8 28mm
Sigma f2.8 28mm
Tamron f2.5 28mm
Tokina f2.8 28mm
Vivitar FM f2.8 28mm
M 28mm f2
Sigma ART 18-35mm f1.8 (never tried)
(APS-C, autofocus, 72mm, 810g, new ART range lens from Sigma)
My reading:
it is just too heavy for its range, but it serves for its purpose in certain situation like low light indoor and outdoor bokeh
it is popular for its sharpness and CA control and cheaper f1.8 option comparing to FA 31mm f1.8
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Other wide angle lens I used but not recommended
Vivitar 19-35mm f/3.5-4.5 series 1 (full frame, manual focus [my copy, there is also AF version], available 2nd hand only)
Tokina 20-35mm f3.5-4.5 (full frame, auto focus, available 2nd hand only)
Sun Optic 24-35mm f3.5 macro (full frame, manual focus, available 2nd hand only)
Standard Range Lens (35-70mm)
Pentax FA 31mm f1.8 (never used)
(full frame, auto focus, 58mm, 345g)
Vivitar 35mm f1.9 (never used)
(full frame, manual focus)
Pentax DA 35mm f2.4
(full frame, auto focus, 49mm, 124g, best cheapest lightweight compact lens for Pentax)
My experience:
good focus speed, compact lightweight for every day use, good 50mm field of view on APS-C Pentax camera, and 35mm documenting style field of view on Pentax MZ serial film camera or full frame DSLR.Sharp wide open and good color feel even when using with flash lighting, f4 onward is razor sharpness across the frame. At f2.4, it gives good depth separation for full body portrait even on APS-C body, and good bokeh for half body portrait even on APS-C body.Thus, it is regarded as plastic fantastic. (I found it is fine for its plastic mount and body build, still feel solid). Also this lens is the only DSLR lens got many color version, like white, gold, silver, and more fancy colors.
as the 18-50mm range is covered by too many compact zoom options, unless I want to travel super compact, I use zoom more often
useful situation:
full body portrait
half body portrait
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Pentax DA 35mm f2.8 Macro (never used)
(full frame, auto focus, 49mm, 215g, 1:1 macro)
Pentax FA 35mm f2 (never used)
(full frame, auto focus, 49mm)
other 35mm prime option
Samyang 35mm f1.4
(full frame, manual focus)
Sigma ART 35mm f1.4 (never used)
(full frame, auto focus, 67mm, 660g)
Pentax DA 40mm f2.8 XS
(full frame, auto focus, 52g, lightest pancake Pentax lens)
My experience:
lens front cap too small, a bit worry of losing it, wide open purple fringe can be as bad as film era lens, otherwise, good shooting angle will make good sharp photos. Compact and always on camera. shoot from f5.6 onward, no more purple fringe, and can shoot anyway you like.
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web ref:
Pentax M 35-70mm f2.8-3.5
(full frame, manual focus, 58mm, mfd 1m, 470g, sharp, fast and great Pentax metal lens, only available 2nd hand)
My experience:
great portrait lens from film era, great wide-open sharpness at both end, and color rendering is pleasant as it can get, no fringe or color cast. Fast aperture for smooth bokeh and great portrait background separation. Only drawback is it is weight, also it is 70mm when contracted, and 35mm when extended, that is why I shoot at its 70mm most time and 35mm only some of the time.
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useful situation:
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Pentax FA 43mm f1.9 (never used)
(full frame, autofocus, 49mm, 155g)
Phenix 50mm f1.7
(full frame, manual focus, 49mm, 200g, original version of current re-branded HorusBennu 50mm F1.7 MC)
Pentax M 50mm f1.7
(full frame, manual focus, 49mm, 185g, solid metal compact Pentax lens, only available 2nd hand)
My experience:
my first Pentax prime lens, good compact, tiny warm color feel, good for general candid shots and half body portrait. fringe only at extremely lighting condition, 6 aperture blades shows pentacon bokeh shape, only circle shape bokeh is at f1.7.
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Pentax M 50mm f1.4
(full frame, manual focus, 49mm, 235g, solid metal compact Pentax lens, not lightweight , only available 2nd hand; make sure check rear element screw tight when you buy 2nd hand)
My experience:
my 2nd Pentax prime lens, good size, good color feel, better bokeh than M 50mm f1.7, good for candid and portrait shots. fringe only at extremely lighting condition, 8 aperture blades give better bokeh shape when using stop down
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Pentax K 50mm f1.2
(full frame, manual focus, 52mm, 385g, solid metal fastest pentax lens, not heavy but you feel the weight, only available 2nd hand)
My experience:
one of the only two f1.2 true Pentax lens, you buy it for its f1.2 and Pentax name, that is it. At f1.2, it is sharp for its purpose, center portrait shots, otherwise, it is dreamy comparing to M 50mm f1.4 wide open. It has better solid look than its later A 50mm f1.2 version, (A 50mm f1.2 is sold metal as well, just it is A series design look) I shoot it mainly wide open in both sunlight and dark night, for its bokeh rendering. However, the difference between f1.4 and f1.2 is tiny, and you really have to check side by side to appreciate it. It is indeed a bit much smoother bokeh. However, the purple fringe wide open is more obvious than M 50mm f1.4, of course, you need to avoid back-lit situation to control it well.
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Pentax DA 50mm f1.8
(full frame, auto focus, 52mm, 122g)
My experience:
bad focus speed as the extension of focus element go front and back along too much distance when focusing. sharpness at f1.8 is good for its purpose, center portrait, otherwise, shoot f2.8 for overall good edge to edge sharpness. It use 52mm filter thread, which not matching the typical Pentax small compact 49mm filter size.
while at least, it is the cheapest 50mm f1.8 Pentax option, and available new and with auto focus, mostly importantly it is sharper plus cheaper than all old Pentax 50mm lens.
useful situation:
full body portrait
half body portrait
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Pentax FA 50mm f1.4
(full frame, auto focus, 49mm, 220g)
My experience:
better than I expected, good separation and color for portrait, great thing is 49mm filter size and it is small, fit most Pentax filer size with a single 49mm ND filter for sunlight wide open shots.
I sold my big Sigma 50mm f1.4 for this FA 50mm f1.4, the biggest reason is its small size, Sigma 50mm is just too big
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Sigma 50mm f1.4 EX DG HSM
(full frame, auto focus, 77mm, 500g)
My experience:
good silence focus and center sharpness wide open, wide open can have little bit purple fringe color cast under bridge lighting condition. f2.8 onward give good overall sharpness and purple fringle resistance. It is heavy, so I use it only when shooting mainly for its purpose. Bokeh rendering and depth of field control is extremely good, even on APS-C Pentax cameras.
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useful situation
full body bokeh portrait
half body bokeh portrait
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Other 50mm prime option
K 50mm f1.4:
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photo of 50s:
Pentax DA 18-135mm f3.5-5.6 WR DC
(APS-C, auto focus, 62mm, 400g, weather sealed)
My experience:
good fast silent focus travel lens for Pentax camera, weather sealed is a plus. Good for its travel purpose. Image quality is about the same as DAL 18-55mm
with WR Pentax DSLR, shooting in heavy water falling is no problem.
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Tamron SP 17-50mm f2.8
(APS-C, auto focus, 67mm, 440g, fast and sharp cheap lens for Pentax APS-C DSLR)
Sigma 17-70mm f/2.8-4 DC Macro OS HSM C
(not tried yet)
(APS-C, auto focus, 72mm, 470g)
other standard zoom range option
Tamron SP 28-105/2.8 AF(176A)
Vivitar 1s 35-85mm f2.8
Ricoh Rikenon P 28-100mm F4 Macro Zoom
Tokina AT-X 242 AF 24-200mm f/3.5-5.6
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Other standard angle lens I used but not recommended
Sigma 50mm f2.8 1:1 Macro (full frame, manual focus, AF version also available)
Pentax Takumar-F 28-80mm F3.5-4.5 (full frame, auto focus, only available 2nd hand)
Phenix 28-135 f3.8-5.2 macro 1:4 (full frame, manual focus, famous old China brand, only available 2nd hand)
my experience: my father's lens, film era manual focus lens, good for its range during its time, M type Pentax mount lens, heavy for modern use.
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Tamron SP 28-75mm f2.8 (full frame, auto focus, f2.8 constant fast zoom)
my experience: good film era auto focus f2.8 constant fast zoom, however, it is only good for film era, for DSLR, it is a bit soft at 75mm wide open, and overall the resolution wide open is just like that. Good for its price, but the modern Tamron SP 17-50mm f2.8 is just better at the same price.
Telephoto Lens (70-300mm)
Pentax DA 70mm f2.4
(APS-C/Full frame, auto focus, 49mm, 130g, removable slide hood and cap)
Pentax FA 77mm f1.8 (never used)
(full frame, auto focus, 49mm, 270g, slide hood)
Samyang 85mm f1.4 (never used)
(full frame, manual focus, 72mm, 513g)
Helios 40-2 85mm f1.5 (never used)
Vivitar 90mm F2.8 Macro 1:1
(full frame, manual focus, 62mm, mfd 14cm, 480g)
My experience:
a heavy metal old manual focus 1:1 macro lens, good for macro and closeup shot, overall good sharpness and color rendering, while it will have some purple fringe in contrast lighting situation, and it is heavy feel
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Tamron SP 90mm f2.8 Macro (never tried)
(full frame, autofocus, 55mm, 400g)
my reading:
it is the cheapest 90-100mm macro with great sharpness for both macro and portrait, while it is big lens
the manual focus switch need 2 steps comparing to 1 step, same as Tamron SP 70-200mm f2.8
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Pentax DFA 100mm f2.8 1:1 Macro WR
(full frame, autofocus, 49mm, 340g, weather proof)
my experience:
sharp wide open and light weight and compact and beautiful lens for portraits, smooth bokeh rendering
focus is slow, as slow as DA 55-300mm
only when strong back lit situation, purple fringe will show, or under flash light, it will show a bit, and if you try super hard, the fringe can be bad. most time, if you can control the light well, it never show fringe.
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Pentax M 135mm f3.5
(full frame, manual focus, 49mm, 270g, slide hood)
Pentax A 135mm f2.8
(full frame, manual focus, 52mm, 340g, slide hood)
my experience:
solid weight and feel and still compact and good color rendering for a performance level portrait lens, it can be a bit fringe but can be controlled like DFA 100mm f2.8 WR,
It performs like DFA 100mm f2.8 WR, but lack a bit in resolution.
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web ref:
other 135mm prime option
Pentax M 200mm f4
(full frame, manual focus, 52mm, 400g, slide hood)
my experience:
a tiny bit long and a tiny bit heavy but still compact and light weight for its focal length
a bit slow to use in late afternoon, and a bit fringe when using in noon time. It is a old lens gives good film look rendering, and a super telephoto that gives super tele look portrait photos.
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web ref:
Pentax DA* 50-135mm f2.8 WR (never used)
(APS-C, autofocus, 67mm, 765g)
my reading:
sharp and great color rendering for its range class, and compact and relative lightweight for its class
same 67mm filter size as Tamron SP 17-50mm f2.8
weather proof
web ref:
Pentax A 70-210mm f4
(full frame, manual focus, 58mm, 680g, slide hood)
my experience:
best 70-200mm for Pentax manual focus lens, but only good at its era, in digital, it can give good color rendering and sharpness, but focus at 200mm f4 is hard with the hand shake at distant subject
it is heavy and long
it give good macro ability with extra turning into macro mode
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Tamron SP 80-200 f2.8 LD (never used)
Tamron SP 70-200mm f2.8 Macro
(full frame, autofocus, 77mm, 1.1kg)
my experience:
it is a heavy lens, but actually when using it, you will focus more on focusing with it than its weight
it is sharp and good rendering even wide open, it was widely considered as faster than DA 50-135mm f2.8, at the same time, it is one of the cheapest option in its class to end all other choice
shooting at f2.8 is hard already on APSC to get a sharp on focus, however, once focus is right, it is good sharpness, actually I shoot f5.6 most time to keep whole body depth in focus while let the focus system have a bigger margin to play with
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Pentax DA/DAL 55-200 f4-5.6
(APS-C, autofocus, 49mm, 235g)
other 200mm prime and zoom options
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Tamron SP 180mm f2.5
Carl Zeiss Jena Sonnar 180/2.8 “zebra”:
Tokina 80-200 f2.8 vs K 200mm f2.5
Vivitar 200mm f3.5 (komine):
Pentaxcon 200mm f3.5 Auto MC
Pentaxcon 200mm f4
6 blade version:
15 blade version M42 (Red text+white text on Rubber Texture focus scale)
(Red text+white text on Metal Texture focus scale)
(yellow text on focus scale)
(green text+white text on Rubber Texture focus scale)
(green text+white text on Rubber Texture focus scale)
M200mm f4 vs A 70-210 f4 vs Sigma 70-200 f2.8:
Tokina 80-200 f2.8 vs Tamron 70-200 f2.8
Tokina 80-200 f2.8
Tamron SP 70-210 f3.5 19AH adaptall-2 lens by techtheman
Pentax DA/DAL 55-300mm f4-5.8
(APS-C, autofocus, 58mm, 425g)
my experience:
cheapest with good quality super-telephoto zoom for Pentax APS-C cameras, delivery good sharpness at f11.
focus on the slow side,
good for nature photography
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Vivitar 100-300mm f5
(full frame, manual focus, 62mm, 800g)
my experience:
ok sharpness for its age, it is long and a bit heavy, but relatively small than f4 options
also it has macro ability with a bit over turn
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Sigma 70-300mm f4-5.6 DG OS
(full frame, autofocus, 62mm, 610g, optical stabilized)
my experience:
good sharpness and optical stablized
less noise and faster autofocus than DA/DAL 55-300mm, but it is heavier and bigger
cheaper than pentax 55-300mm and better than tamron 70-300mm
other 300mm options
Pentacon 300mm f4
(red-text white-text on rubber texture focus scale)
(green-text white-text on rubber texture focus scale)
Pentacon 300mm f4 vs FAJ 75-300 shot:
Super Telephoto Lens (300-800mm)
Pentax F* 300mm f4.5 (never used)
(full frame, autofocus, 67mm, 880g)
Tokina RMC 400mm f5.6
(full frame, manual focus, 72mm, 900g)
other 400mm prime option
Tamron SP 500mm f8 Mirror (Adaptall-2 55BB)
(full frame, manual focus, 82mm, 600g)
my experience:
most light weight and compact option for this focal length range
best sharpness in the mirror class and good sharpness for most purpose, and the mirror donuts bokeh only shows in certain situation
focus is hard to tell whether in focus for distant subject, but easy to tell focus for close and medium range subject
also it has great macro ability, but due to fixed f8 mirror aperture, hard to get all in focus due to narrow depth of field
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other 500mm option
other 800mm-1000mm option
Pentax 67 M*800mm f6.7:
Sigma 1000mm f13.5
A 1200mm f8
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Other telephoto lens I tried but not recommended
Tamron SP 200-500 f5.6 (Adaptall-2 31A)
(full frame, manual focus, 95mm, 2.7kg)
my experience:
heaviest lens I have ever hold, need hold breath for a while to use it to take 2-3 shots.
focus is ok for close and medium distant subject, but you know this old lens is only for fun for a while
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Teleconvertors, Extension Tube and Adapters
Raynox DCR-250 macro filter
(it can be used on any lens with 52-67mm filter range)
my experience:
cheapest and easiest and most popular way to go nature and general macro photography with great sharpness, can use on from medium format camera to small compact camera
with telephoto lens combo, it can go beyond 1:1 macro
with normal focal length range, it can go closeup shots
focusing is easy since your lens always control by camera with wide open metering and framing
no light loss
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Vivitar 2x Macro Teleconvertor PKA
(works with any k-mount lens)
my experience:
cheapest and easiest way to go variable macro with good sharpness together with pentax lens, but hard to find in second hand market
focusing is easy since your lens always control by camera with wide open metering and framing
light loss at 2x time and more when extended
I got this in 2012.04, and I have tried 3 normal 2x TC already, but this one got the extension tube built-in that give it a macro feature;
the main reason I got this macro TC is to use with my 4-meter-minimun-focus-distance Tokina 400mm f5.6 telephone prime lens, because of its long mini focal distance, I have tried with a manual fix extension tube to get it around 2m, but you know, that tube is fixed, and with the tube, it stucks at close focus, can not focus infinity.
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web ref:
Pentax Takumar A 2x TC
(works with any k-mount lens)
my experience:
cheapest way to try longer focal length with old super telephoto lens
while, it is too inconvenient to use when you need to take it out and put lens back
it magnify your image 2x times, at cost of image quality 2x loss and 2x light loss
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reverse mount ring
(works with any lens with same filter thread size as the reverse mount ring)
my experience:
the super dirty cheapest way to try macro, or super macro
but it is just not so convenient and flexible and practical comparing to a dedicated macro lens
focusing is easy if you use another hand to hold aperture level open for metering and framing, or use a PK-NEX adapter with aperture control to hold it for u
great light loss since lens is reversed and not gathering but reducing light
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extension tube
(works with any k-mount lens with aperture ring, or any k-mount lens if it has aperture linkage)
my experience:
since those cheap extension tube has no aperture linkage, so best with lens having aperture ring
also another cheapest way to try macro or just reduce old super telephoto's long minimum focus distance
it is good for staged or studio macro, or one with good hands
focusing is easy if turn wide aperture metering and framing and close down for shooting
light loss a bit when extended
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tamron adaptall lens adapter
ND filter, CPL filter
Flash